Visiting western Germany

When I left Prague I went back to Dresden to meet my friend for lunch and a final catch-up before I had to catch the train for the four hour journey back to Frankfurt. The next morning I got back on another train and headed to Baden Baden for a few days.

Baden Baden is a charming spa town on the western edge of Germany; and also the place my aunt and uncle live.

My relatives had moved home since my last visit and were living in a little town on the outskirts of Baden Baden near the French border (you could actually see into France from the street). The area has lots of small farms and while they live in a normal street of houses and flats, their back windows look up to a vineyard and I lay in bed each morning and watched the sun come up over the vines.

Spring has well and truly sprung in Baden Baden and every garden was full of blooms. Lawns boasted patches of tiny daisies and bluebells and there were streets edged in flowering cherry trees and almond blossoms. There was even a little tulip farm around the corner!

After a rapturous reunion and catch-up on the news, we went for a drive around the area and popped into the city for lunch and a hot chocolate in a little cafe.

The next day we drove to a nearby town to check out a local linen maker that designs and manufactures their materials on the premises. The building was set on a larger block and had rows of flowering trees running down the hill.

People in this corner of Germany really love to celebrate Easter and everywhere we went, we saw seasonal decorations of rabbits, eggs, ribbons and chickens on homes, balconies, shops and even in town squares.

After a pleasant afternoon meandering around different areas, we went home for a nap and then my aunt cooked me the most amazing coq a vin for dinner. She is an awesome cook so it was a completely delicious meal. So spoiled.

Prague - part two

On Sunday morning I decided to walk to the castle up on the hill. It was a cool, crip morning with no fog at all and the walking was easy until I hit the bottom of the hill and started up the stairs. I walked and climbed steps and walked and climbed steps and had just stopped for a mid-climb break when I heard a band begin to play a catchy tune, so I hit the steps again and came out at the top of the hill, overlooking the city. What a view! The morning had warmed up and covered the city in a light haze and the breeze was blowing among the cherry trees and drifting petals down the hill. Behind me, people were walking around the square in front of a church and there was a small band playing music to entertain the visitors.

I bought my entry ticket and walked around the outskirts of the church and the square inside; watching the people and deciding where to start. But as soon as I was out of the sun it got quite cold so I stopped for a coffee. Once I was warm and fuelled, I entered the castle and wandered around the areas open to the public, reading the boards which gave information about the spaces.

After a quick walk through the church and one or two of the other buildings I walked down to the gardens and had a doze in the sun and then started down the hill again through the public gardens. The place was full of people enjoying the sunshine and it was a pleasant place to linger but I was hungry and wanted to find a place for lunch so I didn't linger. I was walking along a pathway, looking for the right place to get back down to the river when I came across the most beautiful old building sitting on the side of the hill. When I got closer I discovered that it was actually a restaurant and also that it boasted the most amazing view; looking out over four bridges spanning the riverbank. It was a view of Prague that I'd seen on postcards around town and wondered where it was - and I'd found it!

I scored a table on the balcony and ate roasted duck breast in plum sauce with dumplings and it was amazing. You have to be grateful for a day when you stumble across the perfect place to spend a Sunday lunch. :-)

A few hours later I finally finished walking down the rest of the hill and crossed back into the city to take a tour of the Jewish synagogue and cemetery. I spent the rest of the afternoon wandering through the old town, finding picturesque courtyards and arty streets and looking down on the city from the top of the town hall viewing platform. Prague is truly a charming city and it's just made for lingering and walking.

Nearly 20,000 steps later my feet gave up the ghost and I had dinner at a stunning restaurant across the square from my hotel where I had pork medallions with wild mushroom risotto and local beer. The food on this trip has been amazing so far!

A few days in Prague just isn't enough time to really explore every corner of this charming city and I was sorry to pack up for the return journey to Germany at the end of my visit. It's easy to get around (unless your are bad at following map directions like me!) The people are friendly and everyone I met had some English, so communication was never a problem. The food was consistently amazing and the beer was very good and cheap. I'll definitely be back!

Prague

Ahh, Prague. Its everything I dreamed about and more. 

This was a destination I always wanted to visit and when I looked on the map it was only a short trip from Dresden so it was too good an opportunity to pass up. The bus trip takes about two hours but you pass the border into the Czech Republic in about 20 mins. I arrived on the road across from the main train station and went to get some money changed before I decided to walk to the hotel.

My map app told me it was only about 2.2km so I put in my headphones, hefted my backpack onto my shoulders and set off down the road; following the instructions as I walked.  At first it was easy, but then I started getting random instructions: " in 10 metres turn left at Sueickslekaljkeks street". What the? There were multiple left turns and I couldn't see the name of the street written anywhere. I turned left and tried for the next instruction.  "In 200m turn right at Tkdkaldfjaklsdlfnankdlfjdf."  Sure!

One and a half hours later, I decided that this was a cosmic plot to make me explore random areas of the city and tried to find a cab.  Nothing. I kept walking and seemed to be getting slightly closer to the destination but was still (and had been for an hour and a half) 35 mins from my hotel. 

Half an hour later I finally found a cab driver who took one look at my destination and told me I was just around the corner. He sent me off in a different direction and sure enough I found it 10 mins later. A 30 min max walk had taken more than two hours. But I had seen a lot of the city I guess. I'm really crap at reading maps!

I'd booked a hotel right in the middle of the old town so I walked down old cobble stone streets sided by charming old buildings of sand and ash coloured stone and found my hotel in the middle of a bustling maze of little streets. I checked in and scored a room on the top floor which would have been perfect except that there was no lift and I'd already walked my feet sore. I had a quick nap and went out to explore the area. I'd come in from one side so I turned the other way to wander and..... walked into fairyland.

The sun had dropped low and all the lights were on and I was standing in the middle of a courtyard under the astronomical clock. Across the square was a large Disney-like church lit up with dramatic lighting. People were wandering around in the hazy dusk and exclaiming at the beauty of it all and I joined them enthusiastically. It was just so, so pretty.

After a little walking around, I started looking for a place to eat and settled on a restaurant a little off the main drag. The waiter obligingly found me an outside table away from the ever-present smokers and gave me a blanket for my legs. I ordered a pork knuckle and local beer (Pilsner). A little while later a giant - and I do mean giant - piece of meat arrived, all crispy and brown on the outside and succulent on the inside. With little roast potatoes, mustard, horseradish and sauerkraut it was truly a delicious feast. I hacked my way around the big bone and hoovered up the delicious meat and slurped down my beer. Heavenly!

The next morning I dressed early and hit the road by 7.30, walking along cool, misty streets. I came out onto the river up from the Charles Bridge and walked along enjoying the fresh breeze and watching the swans laze along the banks of the river. The city was hosting a half marathon in the morning so there were lots of people out setting up for the event and runners strolling along the course and warming up. I stopped for photos along the way and then walked under the street to come up at the Charles Bridge. The famous bridge is adorned with religious sculptures along the sides and it spans the river beautifully. Stall holders had set up along the bridge and people were strolling and browsing and stopping to take photos of the castle up on the hill and the buildings set against a perfect blue sky.

I wandered along the river on the other side, ducking in and out of little side streets to look at the view from different angles and stopped to watch children feeding the many swans who live on the river. Then I crossed back again on another bridge further down the river. By now the marathon had started and the streets were full of runners and supporters and passers-by. Everyone was cheering and yelling and blowing horns and making a fun-filled racket. It was great. 

The city had also kicked off their Easter celebrations and a market had been set up in the middle of the square with stalls bedecked with Easter decorations and flowers and ribbons. A stage sat off to one side with entertainers of all kinds and there was a big maypole strewn with coloured ribbons. I bought some lunch and sat near the statue to watch the people and rest my feet.

Later that evening I went back to the river to find a nice spot to get some sunset shots. I found a cafe on the other side of the riverbank and set up my little tripod. The sunset wasn't spectacular, but a beer and a snack and a few photos later, I was quite a happy camper. 

Stay tuned for part two....